Why I Love Monte San Savino

The Valdichiana is about a 40 minute drive through pretty countryside. The valley bordering my valley, the Valdarno, as I like to think of it.  It happens to be where you'll find Monte San Savino, hands-down one of my favorite villages. There are hundreds to choose from but this is one of the those places that truly feels lived in by its residents, and loved. First, traffic inside the old city walls is strictly limited and its streets are still paved in stone which gives it character and a feel of what it might have looked like centuries ago when carts, carriages and horses where modes of travel.  The main street, Corso Sangallo, slightly tilts upwards as you walk through the main city door and continues at an angle as you move deeper into the historic center: a mix of palazzi where the wealthy had once lived, open squares, and small shops selling antiques, handmade clothing, and anything that locals might need over the course of the day.

Though I have yet to dine in this quaint eatery, word's out that their ciccia reigns supreme in these parts, what beef or pork is generally referred to the local dialect. Not surprisingly, the proprietors are generational butchers. The village boasts an amazing underground cistern, Il Cisterone, built in the 16th century that once distributed water to the community –  the second largest cistern of its kind in Tuscany and it's free to visit. There's a lively flea market, held at certain times of the year, scattered throughout the historic center where you can find collectible vinyl, hand-embroidered linens, and all manner of furniture and housewares, collectible and modern-day. Pop into one of the many bars along the Corso to grab a coffee where locals on the go, go.

What always draws me back here: Monte San Savino once had thriving Jewish community until they were driven out in 1799 when Duke Leopold — his vast domain was the Grand Duchy of Tuscany — issued a series of antisemitic decrees. Because Napoleon's French forces were in the midst of occupying the Italian territories and recognized Jews as full citizens, Jewish communities became an easy target for the home troops; Jews were mercilessly driven from their homes, banished from their businesses, even murdered (that same year, 19 Jews were publicly lynched in Siena). Monte San Savino's community grew steadily between the 16th - 18th centuries and was large enough to have its own synagogue (guided tours by appointment) Hidden behind a nondescript  facade, the old synagogue is actually two contiguous buildings. There are some architectural features inside: a mikvah and niche for storing Torah scrolls. Walkable from the city center, the old Jewish cemetery still has a number of headstones inscribed in Hebrew poking through the terrain. When I learn of a place with a Jewish quarter, make a point of visiting, not only because of interest in the Jewish diaspora but also a reminder that Judaism's part of Italy millennial history. I've gleaned that there was a Jewish presence in my valley. Casting a shadow over this happy piece of information was that my own home has a connection to the tragic events of 1799 when Monte San Savino's Jews (and in other towns like Siena) were banished, perhaps making their way to Livorno, Florence, or even Rome, cities with established Jewish communities, likely with more political pull than compared to a hinterland village like Monte San Savino. These tragic chapters of history, and what's happening now, fill me with sadness. and anger when I look back at past injustices. Solace is in visiting these places where once there'd been life, and remembering them.

The surrounding countryside is worthy of deep exploration. Closeby, Lucignano's quaint medieval center is postcard-ready and in 20 minutes you're walking through Arezzo's sloped Campo Grande before settling into a glass of wine to soak up the vivacious vibes. If you happen upon the town on the first weekend of the month, you might look for a keepsake at the antiques market, one of Italy's best and biggest, when vendors from across Italy set up shop along the Corso Italia and, reaching the very top, under the imposing Duomo. Monte San Savino's tourism office is a wealth of information and the staff I've interacted with, excellent.